Wednesday, January 26, 2011--Off to Brittany

We arrived early in Rennes on a day with rain on and off.  We had read a description of the city that was less than flattering, complaining about its mix of architectural styles.  Some of this was due to bombing during WWII, but there is still plenty of the old city and some gorgeous sections.  

This is the capital of Brittany, on the northwest corner of the nation.  We chose this city because of its proximity to Mont St. Michel, which I really wanted to see (ex-Catholics will never pass up a cathedral or religious site).  We unloaded our gear in our hotel and set off to see what we could see.

We wandered around and finally discover the tourist office, and then Mary wanted something to eat.  We searched, we searched, we searched--nothing attracted her.  Finally when she made a decision, all restaurants were closed for the afternoon.  After  a sandwich and brief rest, we headed off on a historic walk.  

St. Pierre Cathedral

Places des Lices

Ti-Kaz

Hotel de Blossac

Opera house

Parliament of Brittany

St. Melaine Abbey

Hotel de Ville

Lycee Emile Zola

St. Georges public swimming pools

The walk was interesting and introduced us to many of the pleasures of the city, but once again frustration--lost, lost, lost.  We got so turned around that our hike back to the hotel, in the rain, became a huge frustration.  We were sources of genuine puzzlement to locals when we asked how to get down to the station.  Les americaines--sacre bleu!!!!

lost walk home in rain

That night we dined at a restaurant near our hotel that specialized in crepes and gallettes, which we had and which were fantastic.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011--More Versailles

We exited the palais into acres and acres of gardens and beautiful fountains.   The vista from the palace down across lawns extending forever and is beautiful.  The place was packed with tourists and being here in winter we do not see the garden in bloom, but summer is a madhouse here so we feel lucky to have missed all the tourist pandemonium.

We headed off for the Grand Trianon, the small palace to which the king would retire from the court and where he would have considerable sport with his mistress, Madame Maintenon.  This place clearly lacks all the gilt and majesty of the main palace, but this is hardly slumming it either.

From there we hiked a short ways to the Petit Trianon, the retreat of the Louis' son, became a favorite of Marie-Antoinette's.  This is indeed smaller (hence the name) but quite comfortable, even by Mary's demanding standards.

even kids have fun here

We then headed through the garden, past a faux Roman temple, to my favorite spot, the peasant village Marie Antoinette had constructed.  Here she would repair, assume peasant garb, and had actual peasants shipped in to create her own private peasant playground.  It's good to be king, or queen.

some have a gazebo; kings have a temple

small working farm just outside village

A fairly long hike back, views of more fountains, and then a final goodbye to the Sun King.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011--Versailles

We have lost track of time, so when Tuesday appeared, overcast but largely dry, we decided to head out to Versailles, or it wouldn't happen.  We're glad we did.  As usual, Mary masterfully engineered out travel outside town (without this computer we'd be sunk), and we arrived at the palace gates around 11:00 or so.

come on in, we have some room

you can get in, but can you get out

The place is immense and the opulence is staggering; however, that did not deter Mary from deciding that our home remodel needs a theme and Versailles is it for her.  See below some of her ides.

a room, she says, should make a statement--notice she's taking notes

it should have a focal point

it should have its own color scheme and be well-lit

it should also have a comfortable place to entertain

it also needs a unique treatment over the fireplace

I just want a humble statue to show a guy lives there as well

You wander through so many rooms that trying to remember them all is impossible, so I let the pix do the talking and occasionally I remember something

chapel--everyone needs one of these

Louis XIV's bedroom, where the royal undershirts were regularly changed due to excessive sweat

queen's bedroom

Mary thinks my study needs a face lift

The Hall of Mirrors, as everyone knows is the grand spectacle and it has been beautifully restored.  30 years ago this was a shabby spectacle but today it overwhelms.

Hall of Mirrors

We then walked the grounds and I include that jaunt in a separate post.